Wiltons

Wiltons Restaurant Review:

Chef Andrew Turner has made changes at Wiltons, which opened in 1742 then received its first royal warrant as purveyors of the mollusc to Queen Victoria in 1884. It’s been providing to lesser citizens of the realm ever since. The chef pretty much treads the conservative path in the main menu of lobster bisque Newburg, Dover sole, wild turbot, mixed grill and plenty of game in season. You can still get sherry trifle, and anchovies on toast or Welsh rarebit. But he has broken with tradition in his special menus, and there’s a vegetarian menu. The establishment figures who make up the clientele clearly enjoy the alternative offerings. Beetroot marinated Scottish salmon, and scallop mousse with oysters, grapefruit and orange disappear almost as soon as the plates are put down. Also among mains: ratatouille with English lamb, and caper and raisin sauce with plaice. Diners in discreet alcoves look as if they have been governing great companies --- or great societies --- for decades. Wines are largely French and emphasize the classic, and expensive, Burgundy and Bordeaux regions. Pre-theater menu, 2 courses £35, 3 courses £45.