22 Bowen’s Wine Bar & Grille

22 Bowen’s Wine Bar & Grille Restaurant Review:

Newport denizens pack this waterfront steakhouse year-round, undaunted by an à la carte menu that’s as expensive as it is extensive. But that’s to be expected in the heart of downtown Newport; at least 22 Bowen’s avoids the tourist-trap label by serving top-quality steaks and seafood matched by a lengthy wine list. You might start with the eclectic garden salad with pickled shallots, roasted grape tomatoes and ginger honey vinaigrette (preferable to the lobster fritters, rather bland albeit redeemed by a spicy New Orleans-style rémoulade), which sets the stage nicely for a salt-rubbed and well-prepared Delmonico steak --- best unadorned, we feel, despite the variety of sauces served on the side. Filet mignon, with a wine demi-glace and blue-cheese butter, is a popular alternative. A side of Lyonnaise potatoes, more crunchy than creamy, is redolent of sweet onions; we also recommend the asparagus spears served right off the grill. You could sip Château d'Yquem dessert wine afterward, but we prefer the simple pleasure of the Key lime pie and Auntie Amanda's carrot cake.