Angelini Osteria

Angelini Osteria Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: A decidedly diminutive space for the big talent and devoted following of chef Gino Angelini, this elegant study in blond wood and clean lines manages to nail the elusive vibe of being both accessible and select. Smartly attired regulars are greeted like family, others with genuine enthusiasm.

Food & Drinks: The former chef of Rex il Ristorante and Vincenti shows respect for lunch with a serious selection of pizzas, pastas and a grilled half chicken with potatoes. Antipasti lead the show at night: start with fresh anchovies with beets, or maybe umido di trippa (tender tripe stewed with cuttlefish and tomatoes). Risotto with mixed seafood ragù delivers properly cooked rice for an altogether satisfying dish. Pastas are consistently strong, such as Nonna Elvira's green lasagna --- among the best lasagna dishes in town --- and pumpkin tortelli with asparagus and butter-sage sauce. Main courses include a whole branzino roasted in a sea salt crust ceremoniously filleted tableside, and bistecca alla Fiorentina. Sweet endings include semifreddo with carmelized hazelnuts or affogato. The wine list is relatively deep in most major Italian winemaking regions, and there are values to be found.