Antebellum

Antebellum Restaurant Review:

Nicholas St. Clair, who did a sous chef stint at the famed Los Olivos Café that had a role in the film "Sideways," owns Antebellum with his wife, Alison. He sources raw materials produced close to the restaurant, which occupies a restored former residence. We like the pickled shrimp that once graced the menu and long for the return of this rarely seen coastal classic. But meanwhile we take comfort in the Vidalia onion soup with lemon cream and wild mushrooms with house-made gnocchi. The appetizer star, though, is the foie gras crème brûlée, for which a soft mound of sweet foie-influenced custard nestles under a light layer of brûléed sugar, all to be savored with beets, frisée and grilled bread. Pristine fresh fish typically is wild caught, not farm-raised. St. Clair prepares a unique shoulder steak, rich with flavor and texture. For dessert, go for the buttermilk panna cotta topped with lemon curd and the frozen cappuccino. The wine list is brief but samples the globe and it offers a variety of well-priced choices. Alexander Valley Vineyard estate Cabernet Sauvignon is a good match with the shoulder steak. Check for specials, such as Wednesday’s half price wine on bottles under $50 with the purchase of an entrée. Service is professional and the noise level is moderate, a welcome feature.