South Philly Italian makes itself at home in Vegas.
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cafe Martorano Restaurant Review:
Steve Martorano’s South Philly Italian cooking is some of the most honest food in Las Vegas. Surrounded by flat-screen TVs playing mob movies, diners are made aware that the fare here is larger than life, much like the tattooed visionary who created it. A meatball is almost ridiculous in its size: this appetizer alone could feed a small army. But upon tasting its well-balanced combination of beef, shredded veal and pork, you might be tempted not to share. Dishes are served family-style, conveying the concept that beyond the glamour, beyond the glitz, eating together is important. Other notable appetizers include the South Philly-style fried calamari, a far cry from typical heavily-breaded, chewy renditions. Squid is tender and still tasting of the sea, and served with San Marzano tomatoes, hot and sweet peppers and aged balsamic vinegar with a subtle kick. Ever wonder what kind of pasta the Pope eats in the Vatican? Café Martorano serves it and adorns it with simple sauces that allow the flavor of the pasta to shine through. Veal Parmigiana with cutlet of veal, fresh mozzarella and basil is savory. Stepping into Café Martorano is like being transported out of Vegas, and once the food starts rolling to the table, you’re reminded of where you really are: in Steve Martorano’s house.
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