THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Conundrum

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Conundrum Restaurant Review:

If replacing a 40-year institution like local tapas pioneer Iruna seemed like a daunting challenge, the owners of this Harvard Square hideaway---set back from the sidewalk behind a gateway---nonetheless accepted it with relish. The tiny, wood-floored dining room has been handsomely renovated, its painted walls and upholstered booths done in geometrically-patterned wine and olive; beyond the bar, a patio awaits. Though the menu, too, is small, it changes frequently, according to different culinary themes (hence the name: diners can’t be sure exactly what kind of restaurant they’re walking into on any given night). The emphasis, however, is clear-cut contemporary: think steak-and-tuna (surf ‘n’ turf) tartare with avocado coulis and pan-seared salmon with savory french toast. The cooking shows admirable precision, a fact which may compensate for a concept that defies consistency.