Cotogna

Cotogna Restaurant Review:

For many, the formal dining experience at Quince is reserved for special occasions. So chef Michael Tusk and his wife and co-owner Lindsey Tusk opened Cotogna (Italian for Quince), a buzzing and decidedly dressed-down trattoria next door. Exposed brick and timber, a natural wood-slatted ceiling, and tile floors contribute to the hip-yet-cozy interior that exudes casual warmth --- like Quince's eat-in kitchen. Two copper-topped bars offer counter seating facing, respectively, an elmwood bar and state-of-the-art rotisserie grill (the only one of its kind in the U.S.). The latter churns out roasts, such as a Becker Lane pork loin that requires no other flavoring than its own juices. Michael Tusk's famed pasta is in fine form, and wood-fired pizzas include innovative toppings such as butternut squash and sage. Less is more here, as evidenced by a farm egg and ricotta raviolo with brown butter. Desserts might include quince bread pudding with cardamom crème anglaise. Breaking new ground is the very cool fixed-price wine program.