District

District Restaurant Review:

Its neat rows of wood rafters arching high above a handsome U-shaped bar, this joint gives its patrons the oddly appealing sensation they might be eating and drinking within the confines of a very large barrel. Happy hour imbibers come after work to enjoy the worldly wine flights, shoring up their stomachs with well-appointed cheese plates, charcuterie assortments, oysters and bar nibbles such as chickpea fries with chèvre-stuffed peppadew peppers. Eating a full meal here is unnecessary and, unless one chooses wisely, unadvisable. Dishes tend to lean on worn hallmarks of overwrought California cuisine: truffle oil, assorted aïoli, "jams" and goat cheese in various applications. A curry-spiked tomato sauce smothering soft, lovely lamb meatballs has an overwhelmingly powdery flavor. That said, the wines are interesting and presented thoughtfully.