Alain Ducasse and Joël
Robuchon
Old Enemies Bury the
War Hatchet in the
Ovens
As of November
23, 2005, the Relais du Parc is offering a
"best of" menu consisting of select specialties
by the new dynamic duo,
Alain Ducasse and
Joël Robuchon, whose long-time rivalry made
headlines in the past.
Four dishes by Ducasse and Robuchon each are
offered on the menu at this former annex of
celebrated restaurant “59,” where Robuchon bid farewell
in 1996, and where his successor, Ducasse,
began his tenure that same year. Of course,
gourmets are still raving about the meals
served here in the past by these illustrious
chefs, such as Robuchon’s savory tart of
truffles, onions and smoked bacon, or Ducasse’s
langoustines from Southern Brittany, enhanced
with Iranian caviar, and also his caviar gelée
with a cauliflower purée or, better yet, wild
hare from the Loire Valley either "à la Royale"
(stuffed with foie gras and roasted), or stewed
in a civet.
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Cooking in common |
The
fantastic menu above may someday become a
reality again, but today we can enjoy
Robuchon’s cream of pumpkin soup, whiting in an
herb and butter sauce (€27), cabbage stuffed
with pigeon and foie gras (€34), or Ducasse’s
version of crispy bacon and Pompadour potato
casserole (€30), red mullet filets with
Niçoise-style Swiss chard, or his signature
baked macaroni with butter, ham and truffles
(€15). A few very refined desserts, inspired by
the two chefs, complete the meal. The wine
cellar is rich with important wines from
Burgundy, fussed over by sommelier Gérard
Margeon. The best bottles are, for the most
part, also served by the glass, or in
carafes.
This
collaboration—unthinkable when the two star
chefs were in competition for the lead role—is
the result of crossed destinies, from Monte
Carlo to Las Vegas, and of their common links
with the Accor Group. Their endeavor, based on
a well-adapted marketing scheme and on the
revitalization of a restaurant, is a timely
one, similar to that of
Alain Senderens, who reduced the bill of
fare by a third at his new “bistrocized”
namesake.
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All smiles: Alain Ducasse, André Gayot,
Joël Robuchon and
Sophie Gayot
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The
prix-fixe lunch menu is €45 including
appetizer, main course, a glass of wine and
coffee. Count on €70 à la carte.
Le Relais du Parc
57, avenue Raymond Poincaré
75016 Paris
01 44 05 66 10
Open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to
Saturday. Valet parking.
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