Hexagone

Hexagone Restaurant Review:

At the helm of L’Ambroisie with his father Bernard, the young Mathieu Pacaud also presides over this posh restaurant near the Trocadéro. Two floors are decked out in a modern fashion, with a bar that pours creative cocktails and a 70-seat dining room divided in three parts and furnished with comfortable chairs and banquettes. Pacaud develops the menu and gives a nod to traditional cuisine with a touch of sophistication. But it’s Julien Lefebvre, former stalwart of Frédéric Anton at Le Pré Catelan, who executes the dishes. For an appetizer, egg is prepared like a blancmange, the white served whipped with oozing yolk, black truffle slivers and celery cream. Braised calf sweetbread is drenched in a sauce financière, with a beechwood-smoked purée. Dessert by pastry chef Jacques Moreau could include a chocolate cake topped by buckwheat soufflé and crispy hazelnuts, with honey ice cream. Sommelier Benjamin Roffet looks after a well-stocked cellar with 1,200 labels. One hundred wines are available by the glass, among them a tasteful Burgundy Clos Saint-Denis 2011 from Domaine Bertagna at €12 and even a Château Pétrus 2001 at €600.