Kimball House

Kimball House Restaurant Review:

Retaining much of the original material in Decatur's historic 1891 railroad depot that it now occupies, Kimball House presents a distinctive atmosphere. But the old building's high ceilings reverberate sound very uncomfortably, so go early or late, or strive to be seated at the table in the corner, along the far wall where separations provide some protection. Start with oysters, selected daily and served on ice with fresh lemon and an eye-dropper mini-bottle of Champagne vinegar-based mignonette that you won't need. After that, three sections of the menu offer three different sizes of dishes, so one may dine lightly one night and more substantially another. Enjoy the potato sticks, called "Pommes Macaire," accompanied by sauce gribiche. The entire experience can be vegetarian, if desired, or you can pony up for a three-course steak dinner for $48 or the gargantuan-size steaks for around $200 that serve two to four persons. Desserts change daily but typically feature takes on the classics, such as crème brûlée and chocolate torte. The short wine list is intelligent and intriguing, and even notes chilled fino sherry as an apéritif. Note a lengthy lineup of absinthes plus several Madeiras. Details include the date when the coffee was roasted printed on the menu. We thought the Ethiopian showed notable depth of flavor. The raw bar happy hour Monday through Friday from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. with half price oysters is one of the city's best deals.