Kingsley

Kingsley Restaurant Review:

Kingsley’s interior is defined by leather banquettes, polished dark wood floors and beams, exposed brick juxtaposed with white walls and some that are papered over with a pale brocade motif, and soft lighting that casts a warm glow in the intimate dining space. A garden offers outdoor seating. Proprietor and chef Roxanne Spruance (wd~50, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Cafe Tallulah, Alison Eighteen) emphasizes farm-to-table and whole animal preparations, where every part of the animal is used if possible, when creating her seasonal menu. A starter of roasted bone marrow luge with yellowfin tuna tartare, white soy ponzu, sesame and wasabi comes with a shot of mezcal sherry. Here, Asian accents come together to break through the richness of the bone marrow while the shot adds bite. Black trumpet tagliatelle tossed in sherry, lardo and wild watercress is pungent and savory. However, a charred octopus was dry and overcooked. Mains take center stage and reflect Spruance’s expertise when it comes to bringing together eclectic ingredients from a global range of culinary forms to craft dishes possessing harmony and balance. Wild king salmon on asparagus, fiddlehead fern, grapefruit, potato and arare is marked by delicate complementary flavors. The chef shows her inventive side with a savory and flaky wild Atlantic halibut prepared sous vide to a near optimal consistency and served atop artichoke, miso, smoked garlic, mustard and prosciutto. Wagyu Basses-Côtes steak with sunchokes, black garlic, wild spring onion, nori, kasha and shiitake was tender and robust, with a touch of earthiness. A global wine list featuring everything from Cavas and other sparkling varieties from France and Italy to rosé's from Provence and Pinot Noirs from Oregon pairs well with the food.