L'Abattoir

L'Abattoir Restaurant Review:

Situated in Vancouver's first jail in historic Gastown and located in the old meatpacking district between Blood Alley and Gaoler's Mews, L'Abattoir (French for slaughterhouse), you might agree, is aptly named. Manned by some of the city's top talent --- co-owners Paul Grunberg (front man) and Lee Cooper (chef) --- the restaurant is and has been at the top of its game from the beginning. Industrial-chic décor (old brick, French tile, glass, steel) is a backdrop for inventive cocktails from bar manager Thor Paulson, bright-light sommelier Lisa Haley's eclectic worldly wines, and Cooper's informed cooking. Highlights from L'Abattoir's seasonal menu have included pan-fried veal sweetbreads on toast and sauce gribiche with veal tongue; suckling pig with grilled sauerkraut, potato and mustard; and filet of Pacific ling cod plated with fried cauliflower, lentils and grapes. If you haven't inhaled the bottomless breadbasket filled with spicy flatbread, anchovy twists, and buttery bacon-rolled twists, opt for a dessert of chestnut cake with whipped cream cheese, pumpkin purée and brown sugar. Service is intelligent and inconspicuous.