THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Lazy Ox Canteen

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Lazy Ox Canteen Restaurant Review:

The décor of this busy and noisy bistro owned by Michael Cardenas is not like his previous restaurants, Sushi Roku, Katana and BOA Steakhouse. It is, in fact, rather nondescript, as the only decorative element is a picture of a big ox resting on one wall. The kitchen turns out an eclectic menu of small plates, with apparent inspirations ranging from Asia to Latin America to the American South. But if ordered judiciously, a memorable casual meal can be had on this suddenly trendy stretch of San Pedro Street edging Little Tokyo. The food has not suffered terribly since the departure of original chef Josef Centeno, and some of the plates we enjoyed most were chile-spiked caramelized cauliflower (almost too good for vegetables), beer-braised grilled octopus with muscatel vinaigrette, and an addictive bowl of creamy white polenta with mushrooms and a splash of curry oil. Fried chicken is served with a basil purée and some of the aforementioned polenta, while a seven-ounce burger with white cheddar is a reliable option. Kennebec frites are popular, but even more so are pig’s ear chicharrón with horseradish aïoli. Desserts were particularly strong on a recent visit, including a dark chocolate pâté and one of the best salted butterscotch puddings in town. The wine list is not long, but features an intriguing international orientation. Saké, shochu and handcrafted beers from around the globe are also offered.