L’Olivier Restaurant & Bar

L’Olivier Restaurant & Bar Restaurant Review:

Houston diners are familiar with executive chef and co-owner Olivier Ciesielski from his ten years at the helm of Tony’s. At L’Olivier Restaurant & Bar, he’s offering affordable French food in a space that was revamped by partner Mary Clarkson into stylish, slightly minimal environs that sport an open kitchen, raw bar, curved chairs and hanging globe lamps. Ciesielski’s frequently changing menu is just as bright and airy, featuring a few American dishes but mostly bistro classics like steak frites and roast chicken with haricots verts. If the chicken liver pâté is on the menu, it makes a good starter, as does the oeuf Bourguignon, a textbook poached egg in Burgundy sauce. Other standout entrées include the smoked salmon risotto, a traditional boeuf Bourguignon and fragrant steamed mussels swimming in a garlicky white wine sauce. A predominantly French wine list also includes a few California and even Texas labels, and a full bar churns out creative cocktails and such throwbacks as a Pimm’s Cup. And speaking of old-school, do save room for the floating island dessert.