THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED M. Wells

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED M. Wells Restaurant Review:

This diner on an underwhelming, industrial block of Long Island City has all the Americana trappings: the railcar is bathed in pastel colors, there are vinyl booths and a long bar. But have a look at the menu and you’ll know you’re not where you thought. Meet Hugue Dufour, chef and Quebec native, who cooks up pork and other meaty dishes with flair. An escargot tucked inside a marrow-laced bone, a lamb-beef burger, a hot dog topped with a semi-sweet bacon chili, and a dish of satisfying pickled pork tongues all hit the right spot. But the menu has a few misses: the pâté chinois, a glorified shepherd’s pie, did nothing to bolster the flavor of an already bland dish, and the uninspiring salads could use some jazzing up. Still, we'll line up for this marriage of French and American culture.