THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Oloroso

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Oloroso Restaurant Review:

Chef and part-owner Josh Cross has some serious culinary credentials under his toque. Beginning at Biga, the local incubator of several chefs, he went on to work with Mario Batali, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Alain Ducasse. Marshaling the influence of his many mentors, Cross opened Oloroso in a historic cottage in Southtown at the border of the upscale King William Historic District. His seasonal Mediterranean cuisine continues to captivate foodies. To wit: pancetta-wrapped figs with Valdeon cheese and arugula; seared Hudson Valley foie gras with grilled pears; roasted duck breast with braised Swiss chard and roasted wild mushrooms; and braised rabbit with pancetta-wrapped loin and Marsala rabbit sauce. Cross’s reach sometimes exceeds his grasp, as with over-poached eggs and under-flavored truffle vinaigrettes, but house-cured charcuterie is always a good bet as is the chef’s selection of hard-to-find cheeses. Wines from the small but well-matched list and desserts such as huckleberry tart and buttermilk panna cotta may raise the appreciative buzz level in this cozy, but often noisy enclave.