Ox

Ox Restaurant Review:

Ox's storefront location on heavily-trafficked Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard belies its intimate setting that manages to be industrial cool, cozy and quiet enough for private conversations. For their menu, chef/owners Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quinonez Denton draw inspiration from the cuisines of Spain, France and Italy, as well as the products of the Pacific Northwest. Wood-grilled meats and fish are served with a fresh, garlicky chimichurri sauce, but the most interesting dishes have little to do with proteins. Flaky empanadas (ground beef or sweet potato/cheese) are stuffed with robust fillings. Chunks of house-made chorizo and sliced figs elevate an endive salad. A platter of cold seafood appetizers accomplishes subtle magic with squid, shrimp and raw salmon. The popular clam chowder is made unusual and rich with the addition of bone marrow. Fried potatoes benefit from a tangy, rich horseradish cream. The wine list is extensive, centering on Latin America (lots of Malbecs) but also has many options from France, Spain, Italy and the U.S. Reservations are taken only for large groups, so come early for a chance at immediate seating. If faced with a long wait, soothe your impatience at the adjoining The Whey Bar by sipping a craft cocktail and slurping oysters on the half shell. Service is professional and relaxed.