Polaris

Polaris Restaurant Review:

Renovated and reopened in 2014 after a decade of being closed, Polaris’ rotating floor takes 45 minutes to complete a single 360-degree spin that enables a view of downtown’s skyscraper-lined profile. Plush upholstered seating around low tables and a handsome bar make this an ideal place to meet friends for a drink. Two rooftop beehives turn out honey for the restaurant, and the rooftop garden yields produce. The kitchen makes some of the cured meats, such as a venison-enhanced mortadella; a few local cheeses also grace the plate. Start with a cocktail, especially choosing one incorporating the house honey. We suggest the mussels, presented with two slices of grilled, rustic bread. Beneath a rich tomato sauce lurk pieces of fennel, a definite enhancement. Fresh halibut was tasty but just slightly overcooked; its presentation was lovely. Steak Oscar, with Dungeness crab, asparagus and béarnaise sauce, is a familiar luxury dish. Pastry chef James Gallo’s desserts are expertly designed. The Blue Dome references the building’s hotel’s blue dome; its creamy chocolate dusted with a blue-dyed cocoa powder is enhanced by honey caramel. The wine list has decent choices, including a few by the glass. Craft brews are available as well and the lengthy spirits selection offers familiar brands, but none of the fine local products.