Quince

Quince Restaurant Review:

Chef Michael and Lindsay Tusk's fine dining enclave, formerly located in Pacific Heights, reopened in an historic, brick building in Jackson Square. The result is a more expansive, grown-up atmosphere completely befitting of Michael Tusk's sophisticated Italian-influenced cuisine. A renovation revealed changes led by designer Douglas Durkin, including a sheltered entryway crafted in glass and metal; an elegant "Champagne bar and lounge" with tableside cocktail preparations, Champagne and caviar service and dedicated full dining options; two new private dining rooms; a redone kitchen with added Chef's Counter seating, as well as new furnishings, art and décor throughout the dining rooms. Each evening, two different seasonal nine-course tasting menus are offered. Starters can be as exotic as tender medallions of Japanese octopus on a bed of farro, or smoked eel with tagliolini layered in eel-infused cream sauce, while homier options include plump pasta pillows filled with Fontina and sprinkled with slivers of black trumpet mushrooms. Potent, layered flavors make it hard to be disappointed. Wine director Jai Wilson oversees a topnotch cellar that can accommodate 10,000 bottles; the focus is on the Piedmont region, but selections draw from the best from France and California. Desserts range from decadent to refreshing, as seen in the Greek yogurt with persimmons topped with an oat crumble.