Scott's

Scott's Restaurant Review:

Scott's is one of those “legendary” restaurants that seem to have been around forever. And, indeed, it has been---for 150-plus years. Like many institutions, it fell on hard(ish) times and was taken over and rather desperately re-launched once or twice. Then it was bought by Caprice Holdings (owners of The Ivy, Le Caprice and J. Sheekey) and refurbished to be born again as...well...a “legendary” restaurant. It's attractive with its dark oak-panelled walls, hung with some very good (and highly fashionable) art by Young British Artists; a startlingly expensive-looking oyster bar, groaning (if an oyster bar can groan) with all manner of delights in the middle of the room; and dark burgundy, leather-clad banquettes and crisply laid tables in the surrounding oval dining room. The menu, overseen by the chef director of the group, is a lesson in how to compose a cornucopia of fish and traditional British dishes. They run from the best oysters and caviar to shellfish bisque with wild chervil, from wild halibut and Dover sole to smoked haddock. Meat-lovers are not neglected; the small selection of meat dishes is first rate and beautifully cooked. The British emphasis continues with “Desserts and Puddings”: baked plum tart with hazelnut ice cream and homemade ice creams. Scott’s is comfortable and very professional, with a wine list that runs the gamut and is particularly favourable to fish eaters.