Sunda

Sunda Restaurant Review:

Earth tones and natural materials soften the terribly hip scene at this River North eatery owned by nightlife impresario Billy Dec. First off, we’ll make clear this is not authentic Asian --- to expect it would mean missing the point, not to mention a chance to enjoy shockingly good grub. The menu is huge, so huge, in fact, you’d think the kitchen would falter. Turns out the far-flung creations, inspired by Southeast Asian, Japanese and Chinese cuisines, are every bit as good as the buzz suggests. Burnt (read: caramelized) watermelon and unagi bacon “nigiri” kicks summer flavors into overdrive. Still, it's two other dishes that brought us to tears: wok-tossed, crunchy soft shell crab scattered with toasted garlic and dried chilies and The Food Buddha’s crispy, pan-fried sushi rice topped with jalapeño-spiked spicy tuna, favored holdouts from the Rodelio Aglibot-designed menu. Among entrées, the adobo-braised pork belly shines. A first-rate saké list reveals a number of elegant, aromatic finds. Although fairly to the point, there are plenty of enthusiast-appropriate vinos and craft cocktails. Come during happy hour when a selection of specialty libations saves cash, and appetizers (available in the lounge) --- such as Korean fried chicken bao buns --- are budget-friendly.