Tavola

Tavola Restaurant Review:

Chef/owner Nicola Accardi, a New York native who grew up in Italy, pays tribute to his family's roots at Tavola in Hell's Kitchen. The restaurant took over the former space of Manganaro Grosseria Italiana, the historic grocery store that was one of the first olive oil importers in the country. Accardi has preserved some of that history by keeping the pressed tin ceilings and shelves, which are stocked with a limited selection of imported Italian products for sale, including olive oil. Take a seat at the marble bar or one of the two-top or communal tables and marvel at the double wood-burning oven at the end of the long room. Made from Mount Vesuvius volcanic clay, it features one oven for roasting meats, seafood and vegetables and another for reaching the soaring temperatures necessary for making authentic Neapolitan pizza. Start with a plate of Castelvetrano olives, salumi (copa, soppressata) and the cheese of the day (perhaps a seasonal sheep's milk cheese). Among the pizzas, we prefer the creative pie topped with littleneck clams, mozzarella, roasted garlic and peperoncini. The pasta section offers temptations like pappardelle with porcini mushroom veal ragù. Cap off the meal with an espresso and a few nibbles of homemade pistachio biscotti. There are a few beers on tap, including Peroni, plus a short and mostly Italian wine list. This neighborhood restaurant is convenient to the Javits Center as well as Times Square, Port Authority and the Theater District.