Varuni Napoli

Varuni Napoli Restaurant Review:

Luca Varuni parted ways with another famed Italian pizza spot in Atlanta to start his own enterprise. Architect Giancarlo Pirrone crafted the clean, modern lines of the interior and its open kitchen. To start, we like the potato croquettes, and despite the crowds, pizzas come to the table fast. The authentic style means that the pies are baked in a wood-burning oven so the crust has a light char and a high "chew" factor. Ingredients are first-class, as in the exclusive use of mozzarella di buffala. Among the pizzas, try the traditional margherita; Amore Mio that layers mozzarella, roasted artichokes, mild soppressata, mushrooms, black olives, Pecorino Romano and basil; and Bastardo with a spicy pork sausage in the ragù. Don't expect pools of tomato sauce on these pies, just a light glaze. Value priced and very quaffable Italian wines form the short list. Classic desserts from a display case round out the meal. A second location with some menu differences is in Krog Street Market, 99 Krog St. NE, 404-500-5550.