Zero Zero

Zero Zero Restaurant Review:

Zero Zero bills itself as a high-end pizza joint, and this cavernous restaurant with balcony seating lives up to the first half of that formulation right from the beginning, especially if you start with a cocktail. Without trying too hard, tasty drinks deliver, as with the Rye Baby, which tempers dry whiskey with Bonal apéritif and lemon. The pizzas are strong due in no small part to thin, toothsome crusts that strike the right balance between crispiness and suppleness. Our favorite was the simple-yet-refined marinara. The Fillmore, topped with hen of the woods mushrooms, leeks, thyme and a mix of mozzarella and hard cheeses struck us as too dry. The rest of the menu is worthy of attention. In one starter, juicy Asian pear and fresh parsley played good counterpoints to vinegary fried Brussels sprouts. In another, gnocchi so soft it bordered on custardy proved increasingly addictive as it soaked up poached egg, spicy harissa sauce and the juices of slow cooked pork belly. The short rib ragù was rich and creamy. Dessert plays a relaxed note with soft serve sundaes made to order, although even here, with toppings that include ricotta donuts and pomegranate seeds with saffron, Zero Zero maintains a high standard.